Growing Okra
Okra is one of those interesting vegetables like Cowpeas that for some reason you seldom discover growing in backyard vegetable gardens.
Also like those Black Eyed Peas, okra is more popular as a Southern specialty crop; however it will grow perfectly well even in Northern gardens. If you can raise tomatoes and peppers in your garden you should have no trouble growing a healthy and productive crop of okra.
Growing Okra, A Prize Southern Vegetable
My first memory of okra plants were from my grandfather’s large patch of five foot plants growing in Southern Maryland. He raised an okra variety that produced short, smooth and rounded okra pods that are rarely seen or grown by gardeners today. Most of the okra cultivated in gardens now are the slender podded varieties that have pronounced groves or ridges along the sides of the pods.
While okra pods are usually light green in color, you can also find varieties with creamy white pods and I have even raised okra plants that produce attractive velvety red colored pods. The pods mature in sizes ranging from a few inches to over a foot in length.
Most okra varieties offer the best eating quality when the pods are harvested at small sizes, but a few varieties remain tender and tasty even after growing to their full length. The okra pods are packed with seeds that are soft and edible until the pods mature which is when the seeds dry, turn hard, and the pods become tough.
Planting Okra in the Garden
I’ve seen okra transplants for sale at greenhouses and garden centers but it’s a better idea to start your own plants from seed sown directly into the garden. Plant the large, green, round seeds about three quarters of an inch deep after the soil has warmed in mid spring.
Okra plants prefer warm temperatures and grow quickly so there’s no rush to plant them before the weather has settled. Okra can be planted in rows twelve to eighteen inches apart and thinned to stand six inches apart in the row. Or plant the seeds in raised beds using a matrix spacing allowing six to eight inches between the plants in each direction.
A well fertilized or composted bed will supply all the nutrients that the okra plants need to grow and bear a productive harvest of delicious pods. Provide water as needed to support the plants growth and keep the weeds under control until the okra plants are established and tall enough to shade the ground and prevent additional weeds from germinating.
Cultivating and Harvesting Okra
Okra will grow very quickly and before you know it your plants will be over four feet tall with some varieties reaching seven or eight feet in height by the time they are fully grown. Take care to position the plants in an area of the garden where they won’t cast a shadow over shorter neighboring plants.
Keep an eye out for the large pinkish or yellow blossoms that will be produced along the tips of the plants. These attractive flowers will soon be followed by the edible okra pods. It’s important to harvest the okra when the pods are young as they become tough, woody, and inedible if left on the plant until they mature.
To harvest the okra use a knife or a pair of pruners to cut the pods from the stem connecting them to the plant. Some varieties have small spines protruding from the leaves and stems that can cause irritation so protect your hands or wear gloves during harvesting. Each plant will continue to produce numerous pods over the long growing season and by keeping the pods picked you will encourage additional production.
For those growing okra for the first time, the next entry will highlight a few okra varieties that are perfect for the home garden.
Other Related Vegetable Gardening Posts:
May 18th, 2007 at 4:08 pm
Howdy Kenny,
Living in a condo forces me to plant vegetables in pots. I have one transplant of Clemson Spineless and one Red Burgundy growing from a seed. I hope they both do well but how well can they do in pots 1.5′ wide and 1′ deep? Does okra need anything to stabilize it as it grows like tomatoes do? Also, the okra transplant had 3 stalks in it. Should only plant one to a pot?
I’m new at gardening (2years) but I am loving it. So any help from a pro like you would be awsome.
May 18th, 2007 at 6:05 pm
Hi Dallas, you can grow okra plants in containers but I’m afraid that the pots you’re using aren’t going to be large enough. Okra plants can grow over six feet tall and the stems can get almost as wide as the pots that your seedlings are currently growing in. You’re also going to need a deeper container with more soil since the okra plants have a large root system. I would grow one plant per container unless you use something like a windowbox type of container. Okra plants will grow upright without support as long as the root system has enough soil depth to anchor itself and a wide enough base to keep it from tipping over. So transplant your okra seedlings to bigger pots and good luck with your container garden!
June 3rd, 2007 at 12:52 pm
Hi Kenny,
I just found your site! The Florida weave is a great idea; I’m going to try it right away.
We’re growing okra for the first time, two seedlings from the garden shop, and their leaves are yellow. The other plants in the garden are doing ok, and the tomatoes are growing like crazy. What do you think the problem with the okra might be? Or do some varieties have yellow leaves?
June 3rd, 2007 at 5:40 pm
Hi June, were the okra seedlings root bound when you removed them from their growing containers? I have never seen an okra variety that grew yellow leaves. Okra grows much better when raised from seed rather than to set out transplants. It’s also a lot more productive, economical, and easier to grow okra by direct seeding it into the garden.
June 12th, 2007 at 7:50 pm
I have set okra plants that I bought at a garden shop. The plants I purchased had 3 or 4 individual pants in each starter pot. These pants have been in the ground 2 weeks and appear to be growing just fine. My question is – should I prune (cut) all plants except one, or leave the 3 or 4 plants in each hill?
Thanks for your response.
June 12th, 2007 at 8:37 pm
Hi Glenn, when you set the okra transplants out in the garden you could have tried separating the plants and spacing them the proper distance apart. That would have given you more okra seedlings, but would also have run the risk of the plants suffering from transplant shock. At this point you should thin the okra plants by pruning to leave one plant per hill so that they won’t crowd each other. The okra plants should be spaced to grow at least four to six inches apart. There isn’t much gained by growing okra from transplants so next year start your okra plants from seed and you’ll save money and wind up with more plants.
June 22nd, 2007 at 9:36 am
[...] After reading Kenny’s entry on growing okra I’m on my way out the door to see if I can transplant mine. Somehow I missed that it grows 4-5 feet tall! It would make a quick and lovely screen to hide anything unsightly. I realize now after looking at some pictures online that this is the same plant that I marveled over planted out in front of the Rennselaer Dairy Queen once. [...]
June 24th, 2007 at 12:17 pm
I planted okra for the first time from seeds about 5 weeks ago. The plants sprouted quickly but have stayed small. I have 4 to 6 leaves on plants that are only about 3 to 4 inches tall. I live in Santa Fe, NM – 7,000′ elevation, hot, dry and sunny. I’ve tried watering them every day since it’s been so dry lately and they seem to be growing a little faster but no where near 4-5 feet everyone else talks about!
Any idea why they are still so small?
June 24th, 2007 at 2:33 pm
Cynthia, my okra plants are growing at about the same pace as your plants and are still relatively small at this point. Keep watering and fertilize if your soil needs it. Also, as the seedlings grow thin them to stand eight to ten inches apart so that the plants do not crowd each other. Give them time and they should begin to shoot up soon. The height also depends on the okra variety that you planted as some can reach over seven feet tall.
June 27th, 2007 at 7:03 pm
[...] “I live in Western NY and I am trying to grow okra. I read some of your gardening tips for growing okra; however, I’m having some trouble with mine. I started the okra from seed and then transplanted the two largest plants to a large pot (the diameter is 1 ft. 2 in. and the depth is about 2 ft).” [...]
June 30th, 2007 at 2:49 am
I grow my veggies in London, England. Despite what you might have heard… we do have a good 5 months of hot (up to 90degrees) Summer. I have tried to grow okra from seed (Clemsons Spineless) with no success. What would you recommend?
June 30th, 2007 at 11:16 am
If you’re growing other vegetables in your garden there shouldn’t be a particular problem with growing okra plants. They don’t require any special care or soil, but do like warm weather. You didn’t mention exactly what was happening with your plants. My only suggestion would be to try planting a few different okra varieties, maybe Clemson Spineless just doesn’t like the conditions in London. Also plant your okra seed directly in the garden after the soil warms up. Good luck!
August 7th, 2007 at 10:26 pm
I am in the Piedmont Triad of North Carolina. My okra plants are growing well. They are full of blooms. After the bloom falls off, the pod turns black and we have not harvested any pods yet. I have tried to keep the dead pods off the plant, but it does not seem to help. Any suggestions?
August 7th, 2007 at 10:59 pm
Hi Ronda, the only thing that I can suggest for your okra problem is to try using a tiny paint brush to hand pollinate the okra flowers after they open and see if that will help the plants to set good okra pods.
September 16th, 2007 at 2:05 am
Hi Kenny, I live on the gulf coast and have three okra plants growing. One of my plants has decided to take over the garden and is now 8 1/2′ tall and still growing. I measured the base of the stalk and it is 10 1/2″. I am truely amazed and get okra everyday. Have you heard of any bigger?
September 16th, 2007 at 9:58 am
Terry, congrats on growing a giant okra plant, you should take a photo of that monster. What variety of okra seed did you plant? I have heard of a couple of okra varieties that are claimed to reach heights of seven to eight feet, but I have never actually seen an okra plant grow as tall as the one in your garden… very impressive! How many okra pods have you harvested? What size are the pods when harvested? And do the okra pods remain tender if allowed to grow to a large size, or do you harvest them all when they are still small?
October 24th, 2007 at 2:35 am
Hi Kenny,I have some okra seeds for you if you want some. My okra plant now stands 11′ and still getting about 6-8 pods a day. I’m very pleased and surprised. I need to know how to keep it protected against and bad weather or from getting cold. Any suggestions? Thanks Kenny.
October 24th, 2007 at 10:27 pm
Terry, I’m glad to hear that your okra plant is still growing strong. That’s unbelievable that it has gotten that tall and is still producing a large crop of pods. I would love to try some of your gigantic okra seeds. At the current size it may be difficuly for you to cover the plant or protect it from the cold weather. I would just continue harvesting and caring for the plant and see how long it survives into the fall or winter seasons in your southern climate.
October 30th, 2007 at 1:25 am
Hi Kenny,
Just wanted you to know the okra plant(tree) is doing good. Not getting as many pods but it is still getting taller. About 4-6 pods now.I built a kind of green house around the okra, peppers, and tomatoes, but only on the North, East and West. Not much cold from the South. It wasn’t easy doing that but I had to do something to protect it (them).If you are interested in some seed I already have some dried out, just let me know. Thank for your help Kenny. God bless you and have a great day. Terry
March 29th, 2008 at 12:59 pm
What is the best fertilizer for okra in North Florida and when is the best time to plant okra?
March 29th, 2008 at 6:14 pm
Compost would make a great fertilizer for growing okra or you could use a balanced commercial organic fertilizer. Okra is planted in the spring after the threat of frost has passed so that the plant will mature and bear okra pods during the summer months.
July 7th, 2008 at 6:14 am
i noticed how strongly you suggest starting the seed outdoors, but i’m wondering if this would still be the best idea up in our colder climate up here in portland oregon. would it still be better to wait until the last frost, or should i start it indoors first?
July 31st, 2008 at 7:52 am
I have two huge plants and have only harvested one pod. I have no flowers even suggesting that I will have pods. What is going on and is there something I can do. I am in Austin Tx, where it is hot sunny. The plants get plenty of sun and water. I want some okra!!!
Thanks,
Suzanne
July 31st, 2008 at 9:45 pm
Suzanne, your plants are bound to produce some flowers and okra pods sooner or later. Have you tried providing them with a dose of a bloom mix of organic fertilizer? Next year you may want to grow more plants since okras aren’t the most productive vegetable in the garden.
February 24th, 2009 at 3:31 pm
Can anyone help me with a question?? I need to know how much one bushel of okra weighs on average? I’m wanting to grow okra and have some questions. Please respond.
May 11th, 2009 at 8:46 pm
Hi. I am new to gardening and just wanted to know if the okra plant keeps on “giving” or do they die down after a time to be re-started from the seeds gathered? I live in the tropics, so weather shouldn’t be a problem for the plants.
May 11th, 2009 at 8:57 pm
Hi Karlie, in my growing region the shortening day length and cooler temperatures of autumn bring an end to the growth and production of the okra plants. In a tropical climate I’m sure the okra plants will yield over a much longer period and will “keep giving,” but at some point I would guess that production will slow and you will need to start new plants from seed.
May 21st, 2009 at 9:29 am
Hi. I have always helped my mom grow okra in the past and hers always took off and got rather tall pretty fast. Well, this is my first time by myself and they just aren’t growing like I remember when I was younger. I started them from seed. They came up about 2-3 weeks ago. Now they are only 6-7 inches high and yellow. I water my garden just about every day, I live in West Texas so it is pretty dry and hot here. Everything else in my garden is doing awesome, but those. About almost 2 weeks ago we had a huge rain storm come through and pretty much flood my entire back yard. The back yard looked like a small lake. I was worried about the entire garden but it did not even seem to phase anything else in it but maybe the okra. It seemed to be growing slow and very yellow. I have fertilized them. Do you think it was the flooding that is causing them to do this or maybe they have so kind of disease? Help!
May 21st, 2009 at 8:58 pm
Hi Candice, I’ve never noticed any diseases affecting my okra plants. Strange as it may sound you could be over watering the plants with the flooding and all. Does the soil dry out between watering? Do the plants appear to be waterlogged for extended periods? They grow slowly at first but the leaves should not be yellowing.
May 28th, 2009 at 1:30 am
Hi everyone. I planted okra 10 days ago, in about 10 acres with a hydropneumatic machine. It did not came out at all. How many days does okra to come out from the ground? Any thoughts?
June 8th, 2009 at 5:46 pm
Hi, Kenny. I put out 3 4″ seedlings a week ago, the North and South variety since I’m in Illinois (Chicago). One has withered completely, and the other two are getting starts to their “real” leaves, but their “seedling” leaves drooped once and then came back. Yesterday they drooped again and are still that way. Seemed to me to be a water issue, though I have been watering them moderately along, but I wonder if you might think it’s something else. I don’t want to lose them, so any hints you can drop would be very much appreciated. if they go completely, I still have some seeds that I can plant directly into the garden soil. Much obliged!
June 8th, 2009 at 6:16 pm
Hi Becky, don’t worry too much about that first set of leaves, keep an eye on the plants and if they produce additional leaves and continue to grow the plants should be fine. If the leaves droop during mid day but recover in the evening just continue to water the plants moderately, but make sure that you water deeply when you do irrigate the garden.
June 22nd, 2009 at 4:29 am
Hey, Kenny! Love the site! As a transplanted North Carolinian to Poland, I’ve been missing okra for a while now. I’m also a newbie/novice at gardening [starting a new hobby at 42 because of food cravings]. Our summers can be as hot as N.C. but the weather is too fickle for me to trust growing okra in a garden.
What kind of container would you suggest for okra next year? Plastic or metal?
June 22nd, 2009 at 6:15 am
Hi Eric, I would probably go with a plastic container or one with a ceramic glaze because I think that they will stay a little cooler and hold moisture well. Good luck with growing your okra in containers.
July 28th, 2009 at 2:31 am
sir/madam
I am working on tissue culture and transformation of okra, but now day I am facing problems of hardening, sir how much length is required for hardening plants, any treatment is recommended to keep disease free plants.
Surendra Sinkar
Research Associate, India
July 28th, 2009 at 11:22 pm
Hi Surendra, I usually harden my vegetable transplants off over a period of two weeks starting with just an hour outside and gradually increase the time that the plants spend outdoors until they are fully acclimated and can spend the entire day and night out in the elements.
August 29th, 2009 at 4:12 pm
Kenny, I have a nice stand of okra planted late in July, but noticed there are black spots (@ 1 mm each) on the bottom of the leaves. Could even be eggs of an insect. Have seen very few (4 or 5) worm/caterpillar looking things but have removed them. Otherwise have not seen any bugs. Don’t know what they are or if they will damage plants. Do you have an idea? Thanks much!
August 29th, 2009 at 6:50 pm
I’m not sure what the spots that you are seeing are but I wouldn’t worry too much about them unless your plants start experiencing problems. I have never had an insect or disease cause an issue with my eggplants (now groundhogs are a different story), well actually the Japanese Beetles did go after them this summer, but I just picked them off. I would recommend that you keep a close eye on plants, remove the worms/caterpillars, and let us know how your okra grows and produces.
August 30th, 2009 at 4:01 pm
Kenny, Thanks so much for the info. Apparently they are not aphids, right? Haven’t really gardened in years, but it’s a toss up whether the great organic food or the physical and mental stress relief is the great benefit!
August 30th, 2009 at 4:07 pm
No, I don’t think that they are aphids that you are up against, although they are small and you would have to look closely to see them.
September 3rd, 2009 at 11:48 am
Kenny, Am afraid my okra worries are not over. The leaves used to be smooth and veined, but some are now “bumpy” and curling. Any thoughts?
September 3rd, 2009 at 1:12 pm
Hi R.L., I’m afraid that I don’t know what is the problem with your okra leaves. Okra plants do seem to loose a lot of their lower leaves as the plants mature but excessive bumps and curling doesn’t sound good. Do the tops of the plants look healthy? If so, I wouldn’t worry too much at this point as there isn’t much that you can do, so just keep a close eye on them and see if you can notice any insects feeding on the plants and water/fertilize your okra as needed.
September 28th, 2009 at 6:40 pm
To give your okra an early start soak the seeds overnight to soften the hard seed coat. However, don’t soak them longer because they’ll start to sprout and you’ll damage your seed trying to plant them.
September 30th, 2009 at 11:18 pm
Hey Kenny! Greetings from sunny Sydney, Australia! I am a novice green-thumb and am growing okra for the first time. Have put them in an area that basil, chilli, and coriander thrive in. The first shoot has appeared so have my fingers crossed. Just want to thank you for all the great advice here and looking forward to watching the okra grow.
October 19th, 2009 at 2:03 pm
To follow up after my okra questions to you, got past the black spots on the leaves (appeared to be ant related), bumpy leaves (do not know but did not seem to cause any major problems), voracious grasshoppers, had a beautiful stand of okra plants with lots of blossoms. Had about 3 weeks of rain and cooler than normal temperature, which slowed down the growth, and succumbed to an early frost! With no control over the weather, things happen! Appreciate your input, Kenny. Will try again next year. Have a question regarding tomatoes now. Is it OK to preserve green tomatoes if they went through 1 night of light frost? Heard this changes the chemistry somewhat and is not a good idea to eat. (Was thinking of canning a green tomato sauce.) Do you think it is safe?
November 15th, 2009 at 10:26 am
I was wondering what you have to do to harvest okra seed to use next year in your garden. I have let several okra pods grow and get hard and dry out. Now what do I do?
November 17th, 2009 at 10:59 pm
Hi Jo Ellen, once the okra seed pods are dry you can break them open, shake out the seeds, and store them in a cool, dry spot until it is time to plant them in the garden.
November 28th, 2009 at 4:28 pm
Here in No. California, with a mild, non-freeze winter, can okra be wintered over so that the same stalks from this season’s garden produce a new crop next season w/o having to start from seed? Okra has a very deep taproot..
Thanks.
November 29th, 2009 at 9:07 pm
Hi Wayne, I really don’t think that the idea about overwintering okra will work, and even if it did you would probably get better results and more production by starting new plants anyway.
December 10th, 2009 at 1:42 pm
This is my first year growing Okra. It does excellent in Las Vegas even when it’s 115 outside. It started out very slow until May, then it grew very fast with a decent harvest almost every other day. This lasted until November. I’m now looking at plants that have so far survived freezing temperatures (Without leaves and fruit of course) and I will continue to observe the plants to see what extremes they can endure. Hopefully I will get a crop from the same plants next season.